The day we caught the train

Another day, another train, another place!

We arrived in Chiang Mai as broken shadows of our former selves. The truth is that we had just a bit too much of a good time in Bangkok, rarely making it to bed before 3am. We then caught the 10pm train to Chaing Mai. This train was a luxury model compared to what we had in Java - we had real beds and pillows and sheets - all mod cons! Even the toilets didn't smell too bad. But could we bloody sleep?! Nope, not a wink! I swear we are just incompetent travellers! First, I felt really claustrophobic as the carriage had just a narrow walkway, lined with bunk beds and hideous green curtains, which looked like something out of a hospital ward, or as someone helpfully pointed out, a horror film. Once the train eventually got moving (an hour or so late), the breeze came through so I felt better, that was until the wind blowing my hair kept tickling my face and my latest mysterious flea bites started itching - pathetic but true! For Brett, the lights were too bright and the beds too short, the fans too much of a decapitation risk. Like I said - just incompetent all round! In the bright light of day, with an early morning cup of coffee, you could really appreciate the soothing clicking of the train and the lovely scenery. Some of the places we passed were so charming - it was almost like passing through toy town with colourful stations and lush greenery and just the odd person in a wide straw hat and the odd cow.

People we met in Bangkok recommended a guest house in Chiang Mai that's turned out to be almost too good to be true. The place is cheap and cheerful and friendly. We get free coffee and free drinking water, a cool little balcony, free bikes to use and a colourful wee reggae bar attached. It seemed like a surreal joke at first when we arrived, tired as we were. The place is called the Giant Guesthouse and the tiniest guy I've ever seen turned up to meet us, clutching the sign "Giant." We then piled into his car (also with "Giant" written on) - now me and Brett aren't the smallest people in the world but we're not the biggest either and we were like little sardines squished into the front seat of this tiny vehicle. The poor guy couldn't move into second gear without hitting my leg. On route, we watched a tuk tuk and a car collide right in front of us and the tuk tuk bounced onto it's head and down the road. I'm pretty sure noone was too hurt but it was a bit too much of a dramatic start to the day for our frazzled heads.

Chiang Mai itself just feels like heaven. We enjoyed Bangkok while we were there, but this is just a completely different world. It's relaxed and friendly and really quite a hippy town. There's lots of little garden cafes, loads of bookshops, a few arts and crafts, plenty of temples and lots of massage and meditation type places all contained in the old part of town, which is surrounded by a moat. I'm in my element! Last night I treated myself to a whole glass of red wine with dinner - my first red wine (or wine of any kind for that matter) for far too many months. That the wine cost double what my meal cost is irrelevant, and that it was probably the cheapest, crappest wine out there did not matter, for it was wine, lovely red wine. I had the best sleep last night!

For tomorrow we have booked to go to the Elephant Conservation Centre, we shopped around and booked through an eco tour place so we can be pretty sure they really work in the best interest of the elephants. It's the most expensive splashing out in our trip yet (even more than the wine) but I'm so excited that we're off to see elephants!